The category we named in 1998. Heavily included, deeply colored, opaque in places- greys, reds, greens, browns, and the muddled shades between. Diamonds the trade had written off as unsellable until designers saw what they actually were. Inclusions dense enough to give a stone texture you can read across the table.

Kite, hexagon, shield, lozenge, bullet, trilliant. Angular outlines we pushed into the mainstream in 2014, when the trade still cut almost everything round. A straight edge behaves differently than a curve- it sits flush against another stone, holds a line in a cluster, and gives a designer geometry to build on rather than work around.