The category we named in 1998. Heavily included, deeply colored, opaque in places- greys, reds, greens, browns, and the muddled shades between. Diamonds the trade had written off as unsellable until designers saw what they actually were. Inclusions dense enough to give a stone texture you can read across the table.

The most engineered cut in the trade, fifty-seven facets arranged to return as much light as the rough allows. Optimized over a century for maximum brilliance, which is why so much of what is sold today looks alike. We select for the ones that do not: proportions cut for the stone rather than for yield.